Clayland 1 2 3 - PRINTER VERSION
>> insist that they had nothing to do with the place, while others talked about how they had
been made to feel like outsiders by the park staff. I tried to imagine how I would react if, in
the middle of the small town in Virginia where I live, the state government decided to erect a
multimillion-dollar park based on an attraction with which my town's name had been synonymous for
hundreds of years, and then proceeded to staff that facility with people from Washington and
Richmond who had little if any interest in either the history of the town's endeavor or its
future.
Even the idea of what would constitute the park's success appeared to have nothing in common
with Shigaraki's long-term interests. Success, evidently, was going to be measured by whether or
not the park would be able to attract half a million people over the month-long festival. Daily
attendance figures were posted in the public relations office, and every introduction by the staff
seemed to be prefaced with how well the "numbers" were progressing. This bureaucratic concept of
success struck me as not only shortsighted but unconcerned with the question of whether people
came away from the park with a valid impression of the history of Shigaraki's pottery and its people.
There is a tragic postscript to all of this. On May 14, thirteen days before the festival was
to conclude, the same train we had taken from Kyoto five days earlier collided head-on with the
train from Shigaraki. The Kyoto train carried more than 500 people in its two cars, twice its
registered capacity. Forty-two deaths resulted. I had left Shigaraki two days before and was in
Bizen when I learned of the accident from television. The image of the Shigaraki Workers
Gymnasium, which had earlier held an exhibition of ceramics with flower arrangements, now filled
with coffins draped in white, with candles and burning incense placed on them and ringed by
distraught family members keeping a vigil, is something I will never forget.
When I returned to Japan this past July, I went back to Shigaraki to visit friends and drove
by the park. The lines were gone. In fact, I could see no one at all walking up to the park. Also
gone were the guards who had directed traffic during the festival. The parking lots were empty and
the process to reconvert them to rice fields had begun. Perhaps now, I thought, the real work at
the Ceramic Cultural Park could begin. One can only hope that the Shiga prefectural government
will adopt a more enlightened view of the project at this stage, and seek advice from those who
have shown and proven their commitment to the history and people of Shigaraki.
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